“An air conditioning system consists of 2 parts: an outdoor unit (where liquid refrigerant is contained) and an indoor coil (where the refrigerant is pumped into). As the air moves across the air conditioning coil (usually located on top of the furnace), the refrigerant removes the heat from the air as well as the moisture by condensing it on the cold surface of the coil. In this way, an air conditioner not only cools but also dehumidifies the air. Virtually any system can have air conditioning hooked up to it provided that it is a forced air system. In cases where there is not forced air heating or a duct system, “”ductless”” air conditioning systems to cool an entire home or small business.”
Yes, you can. There is a disconnect in your panel box or at the outside unit. Turn it off over the winter and save energy. But when you turn it on again in the Spring, do it at least 24 hours before turning on the cooling equipment. A day`s delay will give the oil time to warm and lubricate the essential parts upon startup.”
“The one thing you should do is cover the top of the condensing unit (with a piece of plywood with something to hold it down) so that no debris can get in. We recommend putting some sort of a hard cover over at least the top of the unit to also protect against damage from falling ice, etc. A specially made cover is a good idea but it`s not absolutely essential. A cover will also protect the finish and guard against rodents making the unit their winter home. Any cover, however, must be removed before the start of operations the following Spring.”
S.E.E.R. stands for Seasonal Energy ,Efficiency Ratio, the standard measurement of air conditioning efficiency established by the U.S. Department of Energy. What does this mean to you? Higher S.E.E.R. ratings translate into greater energy efficiency which means lower summer cooling bills. The most important thing to remember is the higher the S.E.E.R. rating, the more money you save. hy a higher efficiency rating (SEER) saves energy: If your current air conditioner or heat pump is more than 10 years old, it could be operating at lower than 8.00 S.E.E.R. Compare the estimated annual bill of an 8.00 S.E.E.R. system to that of a higher S.E.E.R., such as a 12.00 or 13.00. For instance, if the annual cooling bill of an 8.00 S.E.E.R. system in a particular area is $1,000, it would cost only $615 for a 13.00 S.E.E.R. system to operate at the same capacity in the same area. This is an annual savings of 38%.
A standard 1″” throw-away furnace filter is between 5-10% particle efficient. This means that across the particle size spectrum, these filters will only trap about 5-10% of what passes through them. You can improve the efficiency of the filtration of your heating and/or cooling system by upgrading to either a media or electronic style filter. Their particle removal efficiencies are 60-65% and 90-95%, respectively and either is quite an improvement over standard 1″” filtration capabilities. By doing an upgrade like this, you will also cut down on maintenance costs on the system as dirty systems are the #1 cause for malfunction. This will also boost the efficiency of the system as the heat and cooling transfer coils will be able to operate with the least amount of resistance.
You should change your standard 1″ furnace filter every 6-8 weeks. Believe it or not, a filter actually becomes more efficient as it get dirtier…up to a point. After peak efficiency is reached, the efficiency drops again. Make sure to inspect the filter and use your own judgment. Don`t let the filter get “”clogged”” as this can cut down on the efficiency and/or cause damage to the unit.”
Adjust the louvers inside the registers on the wall or floor in the room where too much heat/cooling is present so that the registers are partially closed. For example, to get more cooling upstairs during hot summer months, partially or fully close the registers downstairs to force more airflow to the upstairs registers. Another possible solution is a furnace equipped with a variable speed blower motor. These furnaces are designed to overcome airflow problems in a home and will keep the airflow steady all over the home. These types of furnaces also use about 1/3 the electricity of a standard furnace and can save considerable amounts of money in operating costs. An Arzel zoning system is also a possible solution to this problem. Zoning is the controlled delivery of heated or cooled air to a particular area of the home, without heating and cooling the entire home. Temperatures can be set and maintained indpendently throughout the home through the use of multiple thermostats.
The two positions are usually used in conjunction with a central air cleaning system. The normal setting is on ‘automatic’ and the fan`s cycle will be controlled by the temperature in the room. However, if your home is equipped with an air cleaner (media or electronic) or you wish to keep a continuous flow of air, switch the setting to “”on””. Remember, central air cleaning devices only work when the furnace is circulating air. If you wish to get the most from your air cleaner, you should keep the setting to ‘on’.
The arrow should point in the same direction as the air flow. In most cases, it will point towards the furnace and should fit between the return air part of the system and the furnace. The filter screens out the dust and other impurities before the air is warmed in your furnace and then distributed through the duct system.
Always have your system checked annually to make sure that the unit is safe. In many cases, tiny cracks or perforations in the heat exchanger occur. If your furnace is burning inefficiently or incompletely, carbon monoxide can escape and fill the house causing serious health problems and/or death to those inside.